Minnesota: July 13 - 19

Route: 52nd ave(Fargo, ND) - 60 ave MN) - CR11 - CR2 Barnesville - CR52 to Fergus Falls; Central Lakes Bike Trail (to Osakis) - Lake Wobegon Trail (to Albany, then north to Bowlus)- Soo Line Trail to Royalton. CR26 - SR25 - SR27 - Kathio State Park and Mille Lacs Lake. SR27 - SR65 - CR3 - Hinckley. SR48 - Wisconsin.

We sure took our time getting out of Fargo on the morning of July 13, Monday: we caught up on espresso!! yippee!!, groceries, notes, visitors center. We went 10 miles out of our way to the visitors center but well worth it as we picked up info on camping and bike trails in the state. We decided to go off route (from adventure cycling mapage) for Minnesota and Wisconsin in order to travel up to Mille Lacs Lake where Reuben's aunt/uncle have a cottage, as well as his cousin. We hoped to visit with a few relatives we hadn't seen for some time as well as some we never met. After gathering loads of goodies and info, we finally got underway in the afternoon -our latest start ever. As we passed over the Red River we felt closer to home: the Midwest. I was ready with my camera to take an 'entering state' pix. However, in their typical understated manner, the people of Minnesota do not announce the entering of their great state. Briefly disappointed, we decided we would simply take a backward shot as we entered Wisconsin. (More on that later.) We arrived in the cute little town of Barnesville, MN around 6 pm and set up camp at the prettiest, best manicured city park we have been to yet: The Wagner Park Campground run by the Lions Club. This was our first introduction to the high level of commitment to mowing that is shared by so many Minnesotans.

The next morning, we set out with another big headwind, stopping in Rothsay for 2nd breakfast. We soon spotted 2 cyclists up ahead of us and low and behold it was Lindsay and Cormack! We were so glad to see each other and caught up on our experiences the last few days. Once again, we worked together with the wind as the sky grew more threatening and it started to sprinkle. About five miles from Fergus Falls, it started to thunder and lightning and we were all keeping ours eyes out for shelter. It was getting real ugly, raining and a little scary. As we entered Fergus Falls at about noon, we spotted Dairyland restaurant, rode our bikes into a covered patio area as the storm really cut loose - I am talking buckets. There were rivers running down the streets! We sure picked the right place: Jean let us stay there for 2 hours while the storm raged. She and others patrons gave us tips on motels and the bike trail we hoped to take. When there was a break in the storm, we once again split from Lindsay and Cormack and headed to Motel 7. Super nice roomy room, good eats nearby.

Minnesta has done a great job converting old railroad beds to bicycle trails (part of the national Rails to Trails program). Fergus Falls is at the western end of the Central Lakes Trail, which runs 55 miles to the southeast through towns such as Ashby, Melby, Brandon, Alexandria and ending at Osakis. It is fully paved the entire way, with stop and yield signs along the way warning about intersections with roads and driveways, and has a maximum grade of 2%. At Osakis, it joins with the Lake Wobegon Trail, aptly named because this is the area from which Garrison Keillor drew his characters and locations for his "Lake Wobegon" radio show on NPR. The Lake Wobegon Trail runs the 50 miles from Osakis to St. Joseph (through Sauk Centre - the home of Sinclair Lewis, then Melrose, Freeport, Albany and Avon) and also has a paved spur that covers the 13 miles north from Albany to the county line between Holdingford and Bowlus. This then connects to the southern end of the Soo Line, which amazingly runs all the way to Superior, WI, but is only paved from the county line to US10 at Royalton.

We set off from Fergus Falls under questionable skies as the clouds had not yet disappeared from the previous day's magnificent storm, entering the De Lagoon County Park to meet the trailhead. With the help of a woman finishing a walk with her dog, we located a gravel path that led us to - lo and behold - a wonderful 12-14' wide asphalt paved trail - time for a couple of yippees and a yahoo! Being off-road, so to speak, and riding through forest, meadow, farmland and past many lakes, we enjoyed many great views and much wildlife: deer, turkeys, egrets, herons, even a weasel carrying it's lunch. At one point we came around a clump of brush and startled a doe and fawn terribly, to the point where the doe jumped straight up twice, turned around to see what the heck we were, snorted several times, then bounded off into the brush (the fawn had left the scene immediately). We enjoyed second breakfast at Ruby's City Cafe in Ashby, then headed on down the trail. As the morning gave way to afternoon, the weather cleared up, a great tailwind started pushing us, and we were just happily cruising along. In Sauk Centre we went into town, past the Sinclair Lewis home on Sinclair Lewis Avenue, and enjoyed a great mid-afternoon lunch at the Main Street Coffee Co, then headed on to Albany. Not far from Albany, we met two cyclists who stopped to talk, as one of them had completed a cross country ride the previous year - we almost talked him into getting his stuff and joining us. At Albany, we already had in 90 miles, but we were still feeling good so we turned up the northward spur and headed to Holdingford. Arriving there, we discussed camping at the city park, but the facilities were not too swift, so after a bite to eat, we decided to go for a campground just south of Royalton. We crossed the Mississippi River just north of Bowlus, rode to the end of the paved trail at US10, then headed south to Royalton, about 3 miles. As the sun was getting low on the horizon, we asked directions at the gas station and learned we still had 3-4 miles to the campground (it turned out to be 5). Off we went, arriving there just as the sun was going down at 9pm and, finding the office closed, decided to setup camp anyway. After 126 miles (too far) and a warm shower, we settled down for the night.

Thursday, we rode the 57 miles from Royalton to the Murray cabins on Mille Lacs Lake, about 1 mile from the Kathio State Park not far from Onamia. After enjoying the trails the previous day, we were brought back to reality when we had to ride on roads that were in need of repair, no shoulders, and a strong wind in our faces whenever we headed north (half the ride). By the time we reached Jim and Theresa's cabin on the lake, we were very much ready for a couple days off. We were greeted by my cousin Jim Murray, his daughter Nicole, and my aunt and uncle Betty and Don Murray (Betty is my mother's sister). My cousin Dick and Bea Murray arrived shortly thereafter, and there were also several folks staying at the adjacent cabin belonging to Don and Betty who had spent a couple days there already as part of a bachelor party for a friend. We had a great meal of burgers, chicken, fish and pasta and had much good discussion about our trip with Don and Betty and touring with Dick and Bea who are also tandem riders getting ready to tour. Don and Betty did not stay the night but headed back to St. Paul.

Friday we enjoyed a great breakfast prepared by Dick and Bea, but they could not stay. The weather was cold and windy, so not much opportunity to enjoy the water. So we mostly got caught up on things, visited with Nicole and her friends Laura and James, met Theresa when she arrived after work, and their friends Seth and Angie arrived a little later, so we had great dinner the Theresa and Jim prepared. Saturday began the same as Friday, cold and windy. I got some bike maintenance done and Teresa and I went shopping for dinner - our turn to cook and contribute. Finally in the late afternoon, the weather started to improve and we enjoyed the lakefront with a fire and hand-cranked some chocolate chip mint ice cream - MMMM!

Even though the weather was poor, our stay with the Murray's was a real blessing for us, as it was the first multiple days off we had taken since Glacier National Park - now a distant memory (both literally and figuratively). Thanks so much to Don, Betty, Dick, Bea and especially Jim, Theresa and Nicole, for fitting us into your plans and busy schedules, feeding us, and just being such great hosts and relatives.

Sunday we headed out with an escort: about 8 bicycles ridden by all those staying at the cabins saw us to the highway. Jim used it as his opportunity to get a workout, riding to Onamia and back. We went to Onamia first to attend Mass at the Church of the Holy Cross which is part of the Crosier Priory and the National Shrine of Saint Odelia. Wonderful service, singing and an inspiration to us. We then followed a paved part of the Soo Line Trail that connected Onamia with Isle, had second breakfast, then headed our on SR 27 once again. Rough roads continued to be our bane, and we also had to adjust to the new Brooks leather seats we put on at the Murrays, trying to improve the staying power of our bums. After about 40 miles, we stopped to adjust my seat again, and I broke the bolt that secures the seatpost collar, meaning that I could not hold the seat in a fixed position. After considerable fiddling around trying to remove the bolt part that remained in the collar, I finally got it out and replaced it with one of the spare bolts I have in reserve. Back on the road, we made it to Hinckley, about 55 miles total for the day, and camped in the American Legion Park for free (albeit no showers except for a towel bath in the restroom).

Monday we rode on SR48, a much better road, and passed into Wisconsin. As we approached the St. Croix River which separates Wisconsin from Minnesota, we saw the "Welcome to Wisconsin" sign on the other side. After crossing the border and looking back, there was no reciprocal notice from Minnesota. Apparently Wisconsin is not as sure of itself as Minnesota is, as they have to tell people where they are. Minnesota has much more self-esteem, as they assume everyone knows when they are in Minnesota (perhaps it is a change in the air? or lighting? or just the ambiance?) and so do not need to announce.

So we are in Wisconsin now (writing from Wausau). Wisconsin update to follow.